Archive for the Travel Category

Heart of America Shakespeare Festival – King Lear

Posted in Books, Travel with tags , , , , , , on April 9, 2015 by David McInerny
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The author at the Globe Theatre, London.

During a discussion over coffee with my good friend Bryan this week, we discovered a mutual love of not only Shakespeare, but of his play King Lear specifically.  I had just seen a local production of The Merchant of Venice presented by the Heart of America Shakespeare Festival, featuring the talent of Gary Neal Johnson as Shylock. It was very well done, and extremely well attended. Though Bryan and I shared remorse at not seeing the play together, we immediately made plans to see the Festival’s next production this summer, King Lear.

It’s truly fortunate that a smaller metropolitan area such as Kansas City has a world class symphony, major sports franchises, the best BBQ in America, and a thriving festival that presents quality renditions of Shakespeare’s plays on a regular basis.  Thanks to the Shakespeare Festival’s founder, Marilyn Strauss for her passion and efforts.

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King Lear with be presented from June 16th through July 5th at Southmoreland Park in Kansas City, with John Rensenhouse playing Lear. For details on the play and the Festival in general, see http://www.kcshakes.org. Personally I look forward to seeing Lear and The Rolling Stones at Arrowhead stadium the same weekend!

I suggest you purchase tickets, read the play, and plan on a lovely evening outdoors this summer watching William Shakespeare’s magnum opus. Also, please check out my previous blog posts regarding The Bard:

Richard III – DNA Match, December 3, 2014

William Shakespeare – Richard III – December 17, 2012

Making Amends to The Bard – September 21, 2012

Genesis – “The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway” – June 2, 2012

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Memphis Blues

Posted in Music, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , on March 27, 2015 by David McInerny

IMG_4633Memphis claims ownership of just about every major blues, soul, and early rock & roll artist, and if you count all the artists that made the trek to record at the iconic Sun and Stax studios, those claims have legitimacy. Sun Studio, which recorded the likes of Elvis, Johnny Cash and Jerry Lee Lewis, is the size of a small studio apartment, located on a nondescript corner of downtown Memphis. To think of all the talent that has passed through its doors makes standing in the diminutive structure a goose-bump of a rock & roll experience. Pressings of those original 45 rpm singles are for sale if you have the ability to drop $50 – $75 for each plate of vinyl.

It was the Black Cadillacs that brought me to Memphis however – a rootsy blues-based band that was headlining at the scruffy Hi-Tone club, but Beale Street captured my heart. A music mecca, not as ranging and raucous as Bourbon Street (see my blog dated June 29, 2014) but fully packed with music clubs laden with local talent, Beale is a blues fan’s dream. The music starts at 10am, even on a cold winter day, and goes full bore until 3am. Cover is never more than $5, and the local food is Mississippi good.

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Probably my favorite moment of the short road trip though, was finding a small historical marker in front of a defunct brick building. I had to move a trash can in front of the marker to see what had occurred at this lonely corner. In 1909 the lower floor was the site of the P. Wee Saloon, where a young musician penned a song at the cigar counter. After being re-worked the song is now considered to be the first blues song ever written, titled “Mr. Crump” at the time, but later renamed by posterity as “Memphis Blues.” The composer, W.C. Handy, the father of blues music, is commemorated in a statue on the edge of Beale Street. What a fantastic find.

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Voici La Hollande

Posted in Family, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , on March 1, 2015 by David McInerny

IMG_4611A place can integrate itself into your life without you being openly cognizant of it. This week I was sorting through the dozens of travel guides I’ve bought through the years, including a large stack of my mother’s given to me after her death almost a dozen years ago. Among her collection was one I had never noticed – a guide to Holland called “Voici la Hollande,” Here is Holland. Why she bought a Dutch guide in French I will never know, but inside it was the receipt dated April 29, 1960, for 4.50 guilders (about $3.00) when she and my dad were in the Netherlands with my three older sisters the year before I was born. Also inside was a postcard showing a painting by Hendrik Averkamp called A Winter Scene. My mom’s guides are replete with receipts, museum passes and other bits of nostalgia which reflect her travels so well documented by date that a chronology of her lifetime of wanderings could easily be constructed.

This is a habit I picked up without realizing my mother did it – tucking momentos from a trip into the guide I was using that would show the dates I was there. My guides are also stuffed with similar time markers, including the first Dutch guide I ever purchased, a now dog-eared Michelin within which I discovered a fax of a 1997 business itinerary that was my first of many chocolate buying trips to Amsterdam. On the back of the fax are my hand-written notes of observations from that June trip, scribbles that are more than enough to spark memories that otherwise would never have been brought to consciousness again: pretty girls riding bikes to work, evening walks watching college students gawk at the red light women, a business lunch on the water discussing the impact of the Dutch East India Company on the world of chocolate. Other memories from that trip have never left me, particularly one great meal on the Damrak at a restaurant I look up on every trip to Holland, including my most recent trip there a year ago.

Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Anne Frank – Holland is a unique country whose personality is concentrated in the city of Amsterdam. My parents took my three sisters and another three offspring (including me) back to Holland in 1970, and the three youngest yet again in 1978. I remember my mom buying pottery from Delft and tulip bulbs to be shipped home and planted at the house in South Bend, Indiana. I returned many times to that city of canals during a collegiate year in 1981 for activities that shall remain undisclosed.

Amsterdam was the locale of the first family trip with our kids in 2001, a trip of windmills, water locks, art and history that, I hope, instilled the love of other cultures in my children that my parents gave to me. I’ve been so fortunate to be able to travel since my youth, and I now call several other countries places where I might still live someday, primarily Italy and France. Today, though, with two travel guides in hand spanning decades of memories, Holland fixes itself as a place of treasured memories woven into the fabric of our family history.

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Noveller – Fantastic Planet (2015)

Posted in Music, Travel with tags , , , , , on February 11, 2015 by David McInerny

Noveller - Fantastic Planet_hiI worry about the damndest things, but whenever I listen to the genius that is the music of Brian Eno and Robert Fripp, I often wonder who is in the creative pipeline that will carry forward into the next generation what these two have spent their careers building. Fripp, he of prog-rock King Crimson fame, never rested on his proverbial laurels and has matured into some marvelously robust ambient work of considerable depth. Then there is Brian Eno. Is it possible to be too cool for Roxy Music? No it is not, but Eno left that band anyway and forged an equally excellent body of delicate ambient music that serves as the current standard. Sometimes the planets align, and these two will team up and give birth to the giant ambient shoulders upon which future artists will stand. But who are those artists? Certainly not the ones I hear when I use Fripp and/or Eno as keywords to stream ambient music. Such are the thoughts that drive me to distraction.

Which brings me to a crappy little airport hotel in Cologne, Germany. My flight home was cancelled due to technical issues I didn’t care to understand or ponder, but the airline was paying for the room, and there was a copy of The Financial Times in the lobby. My non-smoking room smelled like smoke, which was all the excuse I needed to light up, and I flipped through the paper and came upon a record review. In a business magazine loaded with stock price tables. And a glowing review it was, of a new ambient album by Noveller. As I read I downloaded Fantastic Planet from iTunes and listened from start to finish, as I am again as I write.

Noveller is Sarah Lipstate, an artist of considerable talent who is unquestionable aware that she is standing on the shoulders of giants, and her music sounds like she enjoys the view. “Into the Dunes” starts the disc and is so reminiscent of Eno’s best that right there in the nether regions of Cologne’s airport complex I dared believe ambient music has a future. A bright one.

Noveller’s music is not without some muscle of the Fripp techno guitar variety, as evidenced on “Sisters.” “Rubicon” is a lovely hearkening to the early work of Tangerine Dream, and my only complaint with “Pulse Point” is that it wasn’t lengthened into a longer thought of some 20 minutes. My favorite song on the disc, though, is “In February,” a lovely, ruminating weave of musical textures that provide proof there is more to come from this young lady that will be exciting.

Throughout the work, Fantastic Planet maintains a hypnotic tension that captures the ear and holds it. It’s good to know there is promise that ambient music has an intelligent, complex future, and that future is Noveller. I’m ready for more.

Note: For more on Robert Fripp and Brian Eno, read my posts Fripp & Eno, dated January 13, 2013, and Brian Eno – Discreet Music, dated August 19, 2012.

Watching Your Daughter Grow Up At Dinner

Posted in Family, Travel with tags , , , on February 7, 2015 by David McInerny

Reservations were set for 7pm last night at a nice little jazz grill just off the University of Indiana campus. My daughter has worked at the NPR station there since graduating from the University of Kansas journalism school, and her responsibilities have grown from local news to a statewide show over that time. One reason for the road trip was for me to see her improved living quarters, more in keeping with a fledgling Katie Couric.

Dinner had to be pushed back in order to accommodate her long work day, but my daughter had plenty of good news. That morning she had been given her first White House credentials, and she had driven to Indy with a cameraman to cover the president’s speech. She described the secret service sweep as we dined on salad and salmon, and while the music played in the background of her story of the coverage, the image of her as a fifth grader showing stories to my father, a writer, ran through my head. “She’s got the talent,” he used to say.

Is if to accentuate that comment rolling in my head, she announced that she had pitched her first national story and was told by NPR Washington they liked it. It was a moment when a parent realizes that his child is truly making her own way. I decided to pay for dinner anyway.

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Cathedral of Sts. Michael and Gudula – Brussels

Posted in Travel with tags , , , on February 2, 2015 by David McInerny



IMG_4556This 11th century Catholic church is dedicated to two saints known for their power over the devil, and while originally built in the Romanesque style, was later given Gothic features and has gone under recent, tasteful renovations in the last century. It has been the site of a 1995 visit by Pope John Paul II and any number of weddings of Belgian princes.

10am Mass is an event. I wandered in expecting the cavernous echoes of a sparsely attended European sacramental rite, but was gloriously surprised. The pews were cordoned off so that worshippers would not be distracted by meandering tourists. Fourteen men walked up the central aisle, ascended the alter and arranged themselves in the back, and initiated the comforting chant of the Latin Gregorian Mass. The massive elevated organ pumped into life, incense wafted to the stone rafters high above, and the Mass was said in both French and Dutch.

Say what you will about Catholic pomp, but the experience of a high Mass for me exemplifies man’s yearning for the Divine, and the gracious response of a loving God. I left the cathedral feeling peaceful and spent the rest of the morning walking the streets of this beautiful medieval city.

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Mouscron to Bruxelles

Posted in Food, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , on January 25, 2015 by David McInerny

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Early in the morning I checked out of my hotel in Mouscron, a village in the south of Belgium across the border from Lilles, France and made my way to Brussels. Once hailed as the business center of Europe, most of us know Brussels now as the center of chocolate and beer. This charming jewel in the center of what was Flanders still has much of which to be proud. I entered through a tastefully efficient and clean train station and immediately stepped into a wide ranging museum district. A small hill opens onto the Grand Place, a Baroque city center of boutique hotels, small shops and dizzying array of small, bustling restaurants.

I have to admit being in Brussels once before, as a child in 1970, but I remember next to nothing, which is forgivable because Brussels is for adults, not in the Las Vegas sense, rather for those in search of rich medieval history, vibrant cultural art, high quality jewelry or an incomparable meal. In addition, Belgium counts among its greats Victor Hugo, Georges Simenon (see blog from 7/10/12), Rubens, and Herge (see blog from 9/5/12).

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French is primarily spoken, but Dutch is ubiquitous as well. I arrive hungry, with a need for traditional fare – onion soup and cheese with local sausage while I enjoy an Inspector Maigret mystery by Belgium’s favorite son, Simenon. For Belgians, like most Europeans, eating out is a lifestyle, and only the worst weather keeps them from the sidewalk tables. This leaves plenty of inside space for me on a chilly day of 0 degrees Centigrade.

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EU Minimalist

Posted in Travel with tags , , , , , on January 19, 2015 by David McInerny

IMG_4531It’s hard to stay focused on any one thing when you’re planning to walk out the door with everything you need for a two-week business trip. I tend to suddenly remember something like my international phone charger, so I walk away from my work files to get it. Soon, I have “do not forget” piles of stuff all over the house. I can’t afford to take all the stuff I want on this trip, though, because the trip looks something like this: KC -> Atlanta -> Amsterdam -> Cologne -> Mouscron (Belgium) -> Brussels -> Aachen (Germany) -> Zurich -> Cologne -> home. In addition to the international flights, there’s also boarding trains almost every day and constant checking in and out of hotels. Even a roller bag will prove cumbersome, so I’m stripping down to what can be carried in a medium size backpack. In addition to the slacks I’ll wear on the plane, I’m packing one more pair. Two dress shirts. One tie. No extra shoes, a couple sweaters, a minimum of socks and boxers, and three paperbacks. The upside of packing for mobility is that no one will see me twice, so I’ll only bore myself with my redundant wardrobe. Other than that, I’ll use the hotel laundry services and buy any clothes items I discover I need over there.

This will be a solitary trip, with long periods of being on the move peppered with frequent meetings involving no one I’ve met before. So you stay busy, but not preoccupied. It’s easy to get so caught up in reviewing an upcoming presentation while fretting about making the next train change that you forget to stop all the spinning cogs in your head and simply look out the window – ‘Hey, that’s a castle flittering behind the denseness of the Black Forest out there!’ Actually, I’ve gotten pretty good at avoiding those kinds of regrets, but there is a road weariness that settles in with this kind of travel, no matter how fantastic the places are that you find yourself.

There’s no time to really tour a city, but I find enough satisfaction in finishing my work day, checking into the hotel and picking out one place I’d like to see, however obscure and preferably walking distance away. I soak in the local color along the way, spend thirty minutes or so completely involved in my destination, and top it off with a simple dinner at a small neighborhood restaurant with my book, or better yet, some conversation with a local. The key is to not walk out of the hotel, say the hell with it, and spend the evening in a barstool at the Irish pub across from the hotel. That said, I enjoy the anonymity of this kind of travel, free for a time from the labels I or others have placed upon me at home, and see if new acquaintances will find me irresistibly charming or just another moron who needs to move on to his next port of call. We’ll soon see. Anyway, plenty of European photos to come.

Trastevere – David McInerny

Posted in Books, Travel with tags , , , on January 3, 2015 by David McInerny

My book is now available on amazon.com. It feels great to incorporate my years in Rome within a fictional context.  If you didn’t get enough to read for Christmas, consider adding Trastevere to your reading list. Thanks as always to all my readers.

 

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Sabatini in Rome

Posted in Family, Food, Travel with tags , , on December 22, 2014 by David McInerny

736041-1I usually wouldn’t find myself wandering an antique mall of my own volition, but I will confess that I don’t fight the opportunity when asked. I especially like the ones where there are booths with absentee owners, where you take your purchase up to a central cashier. The pressure to browse is nonexistent, and I get to imagine what kind of person would spend time and money collecting late Victorian piss pots and then decide other people would want to buy them. (If I’ve just described you, well, I’m sure it’s a fulfilling hobby.) Anyway, I tend to look at the old books on sale, hoping for some pristine gem, but people tend to take better care of old Brady Bunch lunch boxes than first edition Steinbeck’s twice that age.

This is not to say I haven’t made purchases. One of my favorites is a pretty black and white 19th century etching reproduction of the Duomo in Florence, Italy. I had been wondering if I wanted it when I saw the owner had labeled it “A Scene in Paris.” That clinched the deal, and it currently hangs in my office at work.

My last find was a wonderfully sentimental one. I spent a few years in Rome growing up, and my parent’s favorite restaurant was Sabatini in the Trastevere section which hugs the Tiber river on the southwestern side of the Eternal City. It’s a cozy refuge from the noise of Rome, filled with family-owned pizzerias and art shops, and with streets too narrow for cars, making it a pedestrian’s dream. There is only space for one small piazza, and on one end of this cobbled idyll resides Sabatini. Whenever we had visitor’s from the States, we always took them there for dinner. On my last visit to Rome, I strolled through Trastevere and Sabatini is still there, vibrant as ever.

In those days, dining and smoking went hand in hand, and many European restaurants placed colorful ceramic glazed ashtrays on the tables with the establishment’s name and address on it. Patrons were welcome to take them home, much in the way we swipe pens from hotels today and unwittingly advertise for them. Sabatini also had elegant terra cotta water pitchers on each table emblazoned with the restaurant’s vital statistics. My mom always loved them, but they must have been for sale, because I don’t remember one ever displayed at home. Or maybe they were too big for her to stuff into her purse when the waiter wasn’t looking.

Regardless, in Prairie Village, KS recently I was walking through an antique mall and looked into a booth with a fair amount of dusty old books. I stepped in and noticed that, being used as a bookend, was a Sabatini water pitcher. I don’t remember what is cost, but it wasn’t much. I would have paid anything within a country mile of reasonable for it. I keep it in my own bookcase now. It’s just a simple, mass produced hunk of ceramic, but I can’t look at it without remembering how much my mom looked forward to an evening at Sabatini. I guess that’s the whole allure of rummaging through an antique mall. You just never know…

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